What does Guoyoulin mean?

What does Guoyoulin mean?

At a basic level, Guoyoulin just means a protected National Forest area.   There are Guoyoulin areas all across China and in many tea mountains, but it is the greater Yiwu Guoyoulin areas that are most often referenced with respect to puerh tea.  This article will focus on the Guoyoulin areas around Yiwu.   

Hiking through Yiwu Guoyoulin
Hiking through Yiwu Guoyoulin - thick, unspoilt forest, rich in biodiversity




Types of tea trees in Yiwu area


In (especially) the Yiwu area, tea can be roughly divided into several (non-exclusive) categories


  • Taidicha (plantation tea) Tea grown in terraces or tight rows. The bushes are tightly packed in rows to allow for the maximum production of tea leaves for the area.    This method of planting requires agrochemicals since there is no natural fertilisation and clonal planting renders the tea trees susceptible to insect infestation

 

  • Xiao Shu  - (small trees) More recently planted, especially since the 80’s where there were government incentives to increase the production of Yiwu teas.   This boomed since the mid-2000’s when puerh tea became more expensive and planting of seedlings began in ernest.  These tend to have more spacing between trees than taidicha, but perhaps less monoclonal than plantation tea.

    These can both be grown within the guoyoulin areas and outside.   The quality of the environment is generally better within the guoyoulin areas and will generally produce better tea.

    .Small Trees close to Leng Shui He

Small Trees <20 years old near Leng Shui He

 

  • Da Shu - (big trees) Not necessarily very old, but which have grown to a large size.   These tend to be trees which have thin trunks but have grown high since they haven’t been pollarded or pruned to keep them low.  Characterised by thin and tall trunks.  In more recent years some of these are marketed as Xiao Gaogan (small pole trees)

Guafengzhai Da Shu

"Big trees", young but growing tall near Guafengzhai


  • Jia Bian Gushu (ancient trees close to the village) These tend to have been pollarded or coppiced at some point.    In the early 80's as there was more demand from tea factories, the ancient trees close to the major villages were mostly cut short to increase yield.  The age of these ancient trees can be ascertained from the abnormally thick trunks at ground level compared to the size of the bushes.

DaQIShu Village - Ji Bian Gushu

Jibian Gushu near DaQiShu Village

 

  • Guoyoulin (protected forest) These are trees that are growing in the protected forest areas.  The exact history of these gardens seems to be unknown, but that they were planted sometime in the past around small settlements.  The age of the ancient trees in different guoyoulin gardens seems to be approximately similar, but many have been coppiced in the past - perhaps by fire or perhaps it was more convenient to use the land to grow crops.   Many of these ancient trees have grown up from these thick stumps, with several trunks emerging from a single root base.   There are also smaller trees which seem to have grown from seed or from planting in more modern times.

 

Ancient trees in Leng Shui He (notice the tea picker for scale)

 

 

  • Gaogan (tall pole trees) Trees that grow up tall and straight.   This happens in the forest areas where trees grow straight and tall to seek the light from the canopy.   Around Yiwu these are generally in the protected forest areas and can often be ancient trees (although people have begun calling some younger tall trees “Xiao Gaogan” (Small Gaogan) in order to sell for higher price).   As might be expected, it’s the older trees with thicker trunks and deeper root systems which are more sought after and seem to produce better tea.  There are also tall thin trees in the JiaBian (beside the village) areas which weren’t coppiced (perhaps they were missed or the farmers were lazy to cut them short at the time).  These tall trees are also singled out and harvested as “gaogan”.
Gaogan in LaoJieZi
Gaogan in LaoJieZi - notice the man climbing for scale


  • Danzhu (single tree) This can be the harvesting of any single tree from the preceding categories, though in practice the tree needs to be big enough that there are enough leaves to for a wok of shaqing,  generally at least 3kg of fresh leaves but ideally 5kg or more.   The fresh leaves are difficult to process properly if there are too few leaves in the wok.    It tends to be the bigger trees in the Gaogan or Guoyoulin categories which are singled out for processing individually and sold at a higher price.
Large tree usually processed as a single tree


History and Conflicts

Yiwu has been a source of high quality tea for centuries, but in more recent times as puerh become more popular in the mid 2000’s, there has been more focus on the forest areas.  Abandoned tea gardens in the protected forest areas became more sought after as traders focused on older trees and more pristine forest environments.   These forest gardens tended to be around minority settlements in the forest.  Since the tea was becoming expensive and these gardens were in the forest belonging to the country (i.e. no-one in particular), there were fights between villages and many disagreements between villagers and villages.  In the mid 2000’s the local government stepped in, assigning the rights to look after specific areas to particular villages and specific farmers.  This led to some tea gardens such as BaiChaYuan and Fenghuangwo being managed and harvested by villagers from Yaozu DingJiaZhai instead of Guafengzhai.    These are just examples, though there were many other reassignments on smaller scales.  Although this government intervention hasn’t stopped there being theft of leaves from trees managed by other villages, it made the legal situation more clear with legal resolution possible amongst farmers.   

In the mid-2000’s to mid-2010’s there was a prevalence of illegally cutting trees in the forest, both to plant seedlings and open up new tea gardens in this sought after forest environment.  Cutting down shade trees allowed the tea gardens to receive more sunlight.  There were also unfortunate cases of people cutting down tea trees which they didn’t own, so that they could quickly gather the fresh leaves without having to climb the tall trees to harvest them.   This was obviously a short sighted  and wasteful practice.  In the early-mid 2010’s the local government and forestry service stepped in, imposing harsh fines and jail sentences on those clearing forest areas and cutting down trees.

Today deforestation in the protected forest is quite tightly controlled, and although it would be naive to suggest that it doesn’t happen at all in these remote areas, the prevalence of these kinds of activities has been reduced a lot.





Why is the tea from Guoyoulin sought after?

In brief,  trees tend to be bigger and the environment more rich in biodiversity than the gardens close to the villages.   There is quite a clear difference in quality between the previously abandoned tea gardens growing in the forest from the gardens growing next to the villages.  The tea coming from the forest environment tends to have a more complex aroma, cooling sensations, richness in the mouth and throat and more complex character.    There tends to be more elements in the tea, perhaps from the more biodiverse forest environment, rich soil and deeper root systems.   This isn’t to say there can't be excellent tea growing near the villages, but the forest environment seems to be something more sought after generally.

View from road towards SanJiaZhai, Chawangshu, BaiShaHe
View over part of Yiwu Guoyoulin area towards SanJiaZhai, Chawangshu, BaiShaHe




Labels/Price/Promotion/Quality

Is “guoyoulin” just a label to sell tea for a higher price?  Perhaps it might seem so on the surface for those without experience of the meaning behind the label.   If we look from the outside, we can say there’s a clear differentiation in environment between the cleared areas where only tea trees and grass grow and the biodiverse environments of the forest gardens.    Within these forest environments, it’s also necessary to differentiate between the small trees that have been planted in modern times (which generally speaking tend to produce tea that’s a bit thin, hollow in the mouth, empty in the throat, but benefit from good aroma and high notes in the tasting profile)… then there’s the ancient trees, generally which have been cut and grown up from thick trunks (these tend to be more rich and deeper in the mouth and throat, with more refined fragrance), and the gaogan trees which are more subtle but also more deep in character.   There’s a difference in tea from these kinds of trees which is more than a label, but becoming familiar with these differences personally takes time and the chance to try many examples.

Is it worth the price?

This is a question which each tea drinker should decide for themselves.   These forest environments, and especially areas which have grown to prominence can be very expensive, particularly for the ancient trees, and even more for selected gaogan trees.   Whether the price meets the quality is a question that each tea drinker should decide for themselves.  This article has attempted to provide some background behind the labels, but in the end it’s the quality of the tea in your cup that matters.   Within all these terms and categorisations, there will be good and bad tea.   It’s up to each of us as buyers and drinkers to decide whether the quality of the tea matches the price.
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